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Hangboard Half-Crimp Edge Dead Hang

AdvancedStrengthTier T3

A hang from a fingerboard edge in the half-crimp grip. You press three fingers at ninety degrees with the thumb under the pointer, lift your feet and hang your body weight.

Targets: Hand/Fingers
Muscles: Grip Muscles, Forearm Flexors

Stop if

Choose an easier exercise if pain reaches 6 out of 10 or becomes sharp. Stop and rest if pain reaches 8 out of 10.

This is the general ClapMove rule. This exercise has no extra stop rule of its own.

  • Pain 6 out of 10 or more: choose an easier exercise.
  • Pain 8 out of 10 or more: stop and rest.

Equipment needed

  • Works at home
  • Works at the gym

none

Home Options

  • bodyweight

Dosage

1

Sets

30 sec

Reps / Time

60 sec

Rest

controlled

Tempo

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. A man setting both hands on the fingerboard edge, three fingers bent ninety degrees, thumb offset beneath the pointer.

    Step 1 of 4

    Set the pointer, middle and ring fingers pressing at ninety degrees on the edge - thumb resting offset beneath the pointer, not wrapped over it.

  2. A man in a static dead hang on the fingerboard edge, feet free, three fingers bent at ninety degrees.

    Step 2 of 4

    Lift your feet and hang your whole bodyweight on the half-crimp - keep the ninety-degree press honest, don't slide open.

  3. A man stepping back onto the floor under the board, hands coming off the edge.

    Step 3 of 4

    Put your feet back on the floor and let the grip come off - the hang ends clean.

  4. A man setting both hands on the fingerboard edge, three fingers bent ninety degrees, thumb offset beneath the pointer.

    Step 4 of 4

    Set the pointer, middle and ring fingers pressing at ninety degrees on the edge - thumb resting offset beneath the pointer, not wrapped over it.

Safety Information

Practise only in a properly equipped climbing facility over a matted landing with qualified supervision or instruction with the feet supported until the grip is set. Anyone with a finger, wrist, elbow or shoulder problem should ask a physical therapist or physician before attempting this exercise and stop at pain or dizziness. Repeat only within a comfortable range and stop on unusual pain, slip or fatigue. Stop if the exercise causes pain or you become unwell. Seek appropriate professional advice about symptoms or suitability.

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Printed from clapmove.com. ClapMove is not a replacement for professional medical advice — always consult a healthcare provider before starting any exercise program.